Beinn Udlaidh – Green Eyes IV 4*

We went climbing at Beinn Udlaidh yesterday, and chose the fattest looking route we could see which turned out to be Green Eyes IV 4*. Only given one star but we thought it was a really nice route! It was melting fast though, and none of the turf at the crag is frozen.

Udlaidh, Sat 9th Feb 2013
view from the start of the route

 Nearer the end of the day we could hear loads of ice falling around the Coire, so its needing another freeze before stuff will be climbable again. The first pitch of Green Eyes was in great nick.

Keith on Pitch 1
Keith cranking

 Keith thought the route in its current condition was hard for the grade – corner of the first pitch (cant be seen in these photos) was more towards tech 5. He compared that 5metre section to Organ Pipe Wall (a grade V 5 further along the crag) but obviously it was short lived so no where near as sustained. I can’t comment as I havent done any scottish pure ice grade 5s yet, but it did feel hard for IV 4, but then again this was our first route of the season!

J on the much easier pitch 2.

We topped out around 3pm and headed over to the summit for the ‘tick’ and a bite to eat :)

Quark at summit

We headed off the hill and down to Tyndrum for some well deserved food at the Real Food Cafe. We were originally planning on spending two days climbing, but headed home saturday night as all of our stuff is drenched! (and we wanted a lie in this morning). Heading down to the borders for a day on the bikes fairly soon, but not until after a cooked breakfast. nom nom!

Janey and Keith